Friday, November 18, 2011

Farm-to-Table Dinner at Doko Farm


A few weeks ago, my family and I enjoyed a farm-to-table dinner at Doko Farm, in the Cedar Creek area of Blythewood on the DuBard family land.  Amanda and Joe Jones, owners of the farm on land that has been in Joe’s family since 1839, joined Chef Brian Dukes, executive chef of the Blue Marlin in Columbia, and many volunteers, who worked for their supper, to put on a wonderful autumn meal that celebrated the bounty of our local food.
The tables await diners


Chef Brian Dukes braised Doko Farm's pasture-raised Plymouth Rock heritage chicken legs and thighs with leeks in a rich broth and he grilled the breasts with wood from Doko Farm's pecan grove.  He also grilled the chicken’s legs, which are much longer than the legs from ordinary chickens.  The menu included roasted local sweet potatoes and turnips with herbs, fennel and beets with lemon vinaigrette and City Roots arugula, and bread and homemade apple pie from The Company of OHS in Ridgeway.  The brisk air, brilliant autumn leaves on the trees, and conversation with fellow diners made the delicious food taste even better.
Plymouth Rock chicken on the grill


Guy Noir, a blue Jersey Giant rooster, greeted us as we wandered the farm before the tour of the farm, led by Amanda, began.  Meandering around the farm were members of the laying flock of chickens.  They are an assortment of breeds including Buff Orpingtons, Americanas, Jersey Giants, and combinations of breeds, also known as chicken mutts.
Guy Noir

Four Guinea hogs, developed in the Southeast, which once lived on most homesteads but now are endangered, rooted in the soil in their area of the woods and took delight in burying their faces in the soil as they searched for treats.  These hogs are allies for the Joneses in their battle to retake the pasture from the sweet gum sprouts and sumac; their rooting destroys any vegetation in the way and tills the beautiful black soil.  Because Joe’s ancestors did not plant all the land with cotton, but instead had a diversified homestead with various animal and vegetable crops, the Joneses have thick black topsoil instead of clay or sand, devoid of topsoil, like many old home places. 

I am glad the Joneses are reclaiming the farmland of their ancestors instead of allowing the beautiful house and grounds to fall into disrepair and to be overtaken by weeds.  The grandparents and great-grandparents must be watching them with pleasure knowing that their hard work has not gone to waste and that another generation will farm and love the land.
By attending a farm-to-table event, the diner understands the origin of food.  The same chicken we were eating once roamed in a neighboring pasture, and the vegetables came from nearby.  The meal, albeit with a few gourmet additions Joe’s ancestors did not enjoy, might have been similar to a meal they ate one beautiful November day a hundred years ago. 
Because of the success of this sold-out event, the Joneses hope to have other similar events in the future.  Motor Supply Company Bistro, in Columbia, is hosting Harvest Week November 15-20.  The restaurant will feature Doko Farm’s heritage meats November 17.  Other farms featured during the week include Caw Caw Creek, City Roots, Wil-Moore Farms, and Freshly Grown Farms.  Call the restaurant at 256-6687 or find Motor Supply Company on Facebook for more information.  To find out about upcoming events at Doko Farm, visit www.dokofarm.org or find them on Facebook.   

Monday, November 14, 2011

Make Time to Garden

People often tell me they don’t understand how I have time to garden.  I enjoy working in the garden almost more than anything else, and I prioritize my time so I have time to garden.   Gardening does take time, but it’s also a forgiving hobby:  if I don’t have time to do something today, it will usually be okay if I wait until tomorrow or next week, as long as it’s not watering a shriveled plant or moving plants inside and away from impending frost.

Most folks have hobbies to which they devote their spare time.  People have favorite TV shows, video games, or they play golf or tennis.  People shop or go to movies.  They train for marathons or make crafts.  To make time for gardening, I have had to prioritize my hobbies and interests, and I have had to eliminate some things I used to spend time doing, before I had children, in favor of gardening.
Now that the weather is pleasant and leaves are abundant, it’s the perfect time to start a garden.  If gardening is a new hobby, start small, just as you would if you decided to take up golf or running marathons, and work up to a large garden, if you enjoy the work.  A garden no bigger than 10 square feet gives space to grow a variety of plants, but is small enough to remain easily manageable.  If you are starting with sod or weeds, and don’t want to dig, layer newspaper (don’t use the shiny ad slicks because they might contain toxins) on top of the sod or weeds,  put compost or soil on top in as thick a layer as you desire over the paper, and top it with leaves.    Leave it to rot over the winter, and in the spring you’ll have a nice bed, ready for planting and full of earthworms.

If you want to forgo your usual gym visit for today, get out a shovel, spading fork, or a mattock, and dig up the sod.  One thing I gave up when making time for gardening is regular deliberate exercise like walking or going to the gym.  Digging up 10 square feet of sod burns enough calories to make up for skipping the gym.  Shake the dirt out of the sod or weeds, and compost or discard them—if you have weed seeds or invasive grass, don’t compost them.  Then mix in mushroom compost and organic fertilizer, and your garden is ready to plant.
Save some fall leaves to mulch the garden, and you won’t have to pull weeds.  Many people give up their gardens because weeds infest them.  The only way I am able to have as large a garden as I have is by using a lot of free mulch.  In the fall, I pick up bags of leaves from the side of the road, and, of course, I save my own leaves.  Leaves don’t necessarily look as attractive as purchased mulch, but they are free, lightweight, and easy to spread. 
Mulch applied several inches deep is critical to keeping the weeds down.   A few weeds might penetrate the cover of mulch, but they will be easy to remove during a stroll through the garden.  When I deadhead plants or cut back dead ones, assuming they aren’t diseased, I often stick them under the edge of the mulch, which saves me a trip to the compost pile and puts the compost right where I want it: on the roots of the plants.  In the vegetable garden, I use rotten hay from a round bale my father gives me.  If you have a small suburban lot, you don’t have room for an enormous bale of hay in your yard, but those of you with more land could contact a local farmer about getting a bale of old hay, or even buying a new bale of hay.  It isn’t very expensive.

The late Margot Rochester, who wrote “Earthly Delights,” lived in Lugoff, SC, and said she bought a large round bale of coastal Bermuda grass hay every year and used it to mulch her garden.  Coastal Bermuda grass contains no weed seeds, allaying fears that you might inadvertently sow seeds in the garden.  I haven’t had many problems with weeds from my hay, primarily because I keep it thick enough, several inches, to prevent seeds from germinating.  Ruth Stout, who wrote “How to Have a Green Thumb without an Aching Back,” also used thick layers of hay to keep her garden’s weeds under control.  Both of these women gardened into their older years through both determination to pursue the hobby they loved and by making things as easy on themselves as possible. 
If gardening is a hobby you would like to pursue, it’s a great time of year to start.  Prepare your bed and give the earthworms time to work over the winter to improve the soil further, or plant it immediately.  Now, I am off to run the tiller over the site of our future orchard.  The calories I burn off wielding that machine will make up for the consumption of all the Halloween candy I steal from my daughters.